A Paean to Sayan

At least once in your life, you’d want to experience Bali the Sayan way.

Countless articles and reviews have been written about this Four Seasons Resort in the village of Sayan, Ubud. It was crowned the №1 Hotel in the World just two years ago and continues to reign among the crème de la crème.

Yet all the buzz and accolades could barely capture the unforgettable warmth and beauty of Sayan. As I wrote this piece, I found myself walking through moment after moment that filled me anew with joy, that reminded me of all the reasons why this magical place is worthy of praise many times over. Indeed, writing about Sayan has offered much-needed solace in this time of isolation. (At the time of writing in March 2020, the resort had just announced its temporary closure due to the pandemic. As of 1 August 2020, it has started welcoming guests back.)

ARRIVAL

Wearing a smile and a smart, all-white outfit with the signature silver-and-black leaf pinned on his chest, the gentleman greeted me warmly by name and shook my hands.

Exactly at the agreed time, and appearing as if completely out of nowhere on the charmingly irregular street-side of Ubud, he calmly collected our luggage and escorted us to a white mini-bus parked nearby.

Soon, we were whisked away from the hustle and bustle of Ubud Town onto a long street lined busily with stores, homes, and signage after signage of numerous branded resorts in the vicinity — from Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve to Amandari, one of two Aman resorts in Bali and the very first one in Indonesia. This is the million-dollar stretch, we’re told, as it runs parallel to the Ayung River and the expansive valley below.

After a sharp turn, the mini-bus started weaving its way through an impossibly narrow passageway, flanked on either side by verdant vines, and as if by magic, all the noise and clutter of the street right outside seemed to instantly disappear. A brief security check and mere moments later, we were surrounded by lush, perfectly manicured greenery and driving down a meandering hill that took us right to the porte cochère — complete with a fiery cauldron atop a calm reflective pond.

There is an unmistakable sense of intrigue to the entire arrival experience here, with every moment unfolding as a delightful surprise before our eyes. This came hand in hand with the quintessential Balinese warmth as we were invited to partake in a traditional welcome ceremony just as we stepped off the car. This involved hitting a giant, sonorous Balinese wooden bell called kulkul, traditionally used in Balinese villages to send signals — and in this case, quite aptly, to inform the reception team of our arrival to the Sayan community.

Now, as we walked across a dramatic bridge towards the resort’s main building — an oval-shaped mothership of radiant limestone and rich mahogany topped off by a majestic pond, the full grandeur of the Sayan Valley began to reveal itself in all its glorious greenery.

At the end of the bridge, we found ourselves standing right above the rooftop pond, amidst all the beautiful lotus and lily blooms swaying gently to the breeze, our eyes drawn from end to end to the seemingly boundless greenery that is Ubud’s verdant tropical paradise.

With that breath-taking panorama as the backdrop, the stage was set.

MISE EN SCENE

The resort’s inspired architecture is indeed a gratifying theatrical experience in its own right.

In Bali, there is certainly no shortage of hotels and resorts competing to awe guests with their architecture — from cliff-top reception at Mandapa and Bvlgari Resort, megalithic pillars at The Mulia, to dramatic layers of infinity pools in the likes of Amankila and Hanging Gardens of Ubud. Yet, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan, which opened over twenty years ago in 1998, has remained distinctively a class above the rest.

The resort’s design is confident, deeply considered, authentic, and perfectly timeless, with nary a single element out of place. All it takes for one to appreciate this is to lounge along the long, curved banquette seating area at Jati Bar in the late afternoon, just as the sun is beginning to retire while casting warm, golden rays onto the vast greenery around the resort.

The view from up here is infinitely arresting and perfectly unobstructed because the building’s structure has eliminated walls or windows in this area; one can just sit back comfortably, relish the clove-scented cold towel, have a cup of jasmine tea, and take in the most vivid and expansive, floor-to-ceiling, end-to-end view of this beautiful corner of the Earth.

The resort’s orientation means that all day long, every corner you gaze upon is basking in the sun’s brilliance just at the right intensity; it is such an abstract, ineffable quality, yet it makes all the difference to one’s visual experience of the space, where everything seems to be naturally radiant, from sparkles of water to the reflective surface of a giant clay vessel.

At Sayan, the world seems literally brighter.

What is particularly impressive is the fact that through the decades that have passed, there is nothing here that seems to have been copied, borrowed, or taken from newfangled design trends and fads.

While the resort has undergone renovations to keep up with the demands of today’s travellers, it has remained true to its own spirit, with profound appreciation for quality, finesse, and originality that speaks for itself in all the key fundamentals — the choice of tropical textures and materials, space design and layout, its curated collection of wood and stone sculptures and salvaged antiques from across the archipelago, and certainly in the team’s dedication to maintenance.

The landscaping throughout the vast estate is a true marvel. Everything is immaculate, every angle and corner absolutely picture-perfect, and yet, nothing feels forced into superficially pleasing rows or symmetries.

The undulating terrain; the slender coconut trees leaning ever so precariously; all the fruit trees bearing cashews, durians, and more; the tall ancient trees forming a cool, shady atrium underneath them, as if framing nature’s very own sacred altar — all of these blend perfectly into the resort’s natural locale by the Ayung River.

Of course, there are paddy fields just steps away from your Suite, and as you walk through them in the morning, with a light mist and the smell of fresh morning dew still in the air, you’d find joyful company in flocks of singing birds jumping about after tasting the sweet grains of rice. There is nothing quite like it, except perhaps walking through the Garden of Eden itself.

ENCOUNTERS AND EXPERIENCES

One can’t help but speak in spiritual terms because the resort’s landscape truly has that uplifting effect in framing our encounters with nature, seemingly with the least intervention.

This is perhaps best exemplified in the ingenious way the resort’s individual Villas around the river valley are designed. From the ground level, one wouldn’t see obstructive walls or doors enclosing each Villa; instead, we see quiet, open gazebos on terraces with lily ponds blending quietly into the green surroundings, because the actual entrance to the Villa is hidden beneath. This is why walking around the estate feels less like being in a resort and more like strolling through one’s private paradise, a sublime communion with nature at its best and most beautiful.

That sense of serenity pervades the resort, not least because there are only 60 rooms and Villas within an area of nearly 69,000 square metres. Even during the Chinese New Year period when the resort was apparently close to capacity, there was never an overt sense of crowding anywhere in the premises, even though the Ayung Terrace was still abuzz with just the right energy during meals.

Importantly, the relative privacy and intimacy made for blissful moments of peace with nature throughout the resort, from an invigorating yoga session in a bamboo pavilion overlooking the paddy fields (complimentary as part of the resort’s extensive programme of activities) to a relaxing massage ritual at the Sacred River Spa, where each private pavilion, complete with its own outdoor plunge pool and jacuzzi, is surrounded by a lotus pond and lush tropical foliage. One is left entirely with one’s own thoughts (positive ones, as your therapist is wont to remind you) and the calming sounds of nature.

One special experience that is not to be missed is the Village Walk, which the resort regularly offers in its programme, with compliments. Starting at eight o’clock in the morning, this guided walk provides the best opportunity to embrace Ubud’s morning sun while discovering the surrounding Sayan Village and meeting its residents, most of whom are employed at the resort and have been an integral part of its journey from the very beginning. In fact, as our guide Agus gleefully recounted, back in his childhood days, he and his friends would cheekily call out the resort’s patrolling security guards from the trees across the river and then scramble up the hill when they got spotted!

Agus took us around the expansive paddy fields within the resort that are still being maintained by the villagers to this day; as we walked past, a farmer was tending to his plot, with his trusty canine companion by his side.

We then took an uphill but short, manageable trek through a forested patch, home to all kinds of tiny critters and tropical flora. Of course, Agus brought along an insect repellent and had already helped us apply some of it before we set off.

As we walked through pillars of light where the gentle morning sun managed to pierce through the verdant tropical forest, we noticed a subtle sweet scent in the air, which we learnt came from the ripened fruits in season then — from jackfruits to the King of Fruits durian.

Soon, we found ourselves on a ‘treasure hunt’ as Agus gamely tried to find for us one or two ripe durians that might have fallen to the ground. We didn’t come across any, sadly, but it was satisfying enough, especially for my green-fingered mum, to spot all the fruit trees along the way.

As part of the Village Walk, we got to drop by a traditional Balinese home compound, which belongs to a local staff member of the resort and his family. This gave us an insight into Balinese domestic life, including the significant role of spirituality and worship. Just as we were leaving the house, the family matriarch was walking into the family shrine carrying a tray of offerings, with the fragrance of incense wafting through the air, getting ready for the first order of the day.

GASTRONOMY

Back at the resort after the Village Walk, after Agus handed us cold lemongrass-scented towels, we headed down to the Ayung Terrace for breakfast, which is truly an affair to look forward to every morning here.

Forget about buffet spreads stewing in warmers. Everything on the international menu — from Balinese-style porridge, Belgian waffle, to Japanese breakfast set — is prepared a la minute and to a very high standard of excellence. And yes, you may help yourself to multiple servings, absolutely to your heart’s content — in addition to the bread service where the team would serve a smorgasbord of danish, croissants, and rolls by your table-side and a full selection of tropical fruits and freshly pressed juices.

The resort had also been extremely accommodating of my requirements as a vegetarian who does not consume garlic, onion, and the likes (also known in general as allium). I’d shared these in advance when the resort staff called to confirm my reservation two weeks prior to our arrival, and the entire culinary team appeared to be well aware of this each time I sat down for meals.

Vegans get to choose from a dedicated menu of at least 15 items, but there were plenty to choose from even in the main menu, with the excellent service team ready to advise on any customisation upon request.

In short, you would not miss the typical resort buffet ever again; breakfast at the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan — with the view and bespoke service — is an experience fit for royals. (On that note, guests have the option of having breakfast served right to their suites or villas, though the menu might be more limited, so I’d highly recommend making the trip down to Ayung Terrace at least once. You would not regret it.)

Another highlight of our stay was the cooking class with Chef Gusti at the resort’s very own Sokasi Cooking School.

The experience started early in the morning, at 8am, when we took a trip with the Chef to the Ubud Market — just ten minutes away from the resort by car — to learn more about fresh local ingredients and spices. My mum, a prolific home-cook herself, is no stranger to the typical Indonesian wet market, but for me and my brother, this was our first time in a long while, so it was a rare opportunity to take in the scenes, sounds, and of course, smells. What a way to awaken one’s senses!

Once we were back at the resort, Chef Gusti took his leave to prepare our ‘classroom’ while we proceeded to Ayung Terrace for our favourite breakfast.

At about 11am, we made our way down to Sokasi, which turned out to be a beautiful bamboo pavilion situated just by the Ayung River. As soon as we arrived, we were served refreshing young coconuts that grow within the resort compound. Chef Gusti had already laid out all the colourful ingredients on a blackstone counter, which is also equipped with grills and other professional equipment. He then took us on a quick walk to the herb garden just by the main pavilion, where he showed us every imaginable spice and herb from turmeric, galangal, to lemongrass, as well as rice seedlings, Bali’s everlasting lifeline.

I had picked a plant-based wellness menu for the lesson, a programme of three courses of Balinese-Indonesian cuisine curated in collaboration with the resort’s Sacred River Spa. While making the reservation, though, I noticed that the menu includes gado-gado, a beloved Indonesian favourite that is nonetheless a little too familiar for a seasoned cook like mum. I asked if the team would have an alternative, and they gladly obliged, sending through a recipe for srombotan Klungkung — a signature dish from the Eastern Bali region of Klungkung that comprises water spinach, green beans, and wing beans spiced with wild ginger, chili, palm sugar, and lime.

On the way to the market, Chef Gusti had also asked my mum about her interests and preferences, and whether she would like to learn any specific recipe that is off the menu. Mum was all too ready to take him up on this offer and asked about lawar, a popular Balinese vegetable dish made of young coconut, young jackfruit, and other spices. She has long been curious about how it is made, and by the time we got to Sokasi for the class barely a couple of hours later, Chef Gusti had already prepared all the ingredients to make lawar with us.

Chef Gusti admitted that this was his first time preparing traditional Balinese dishes without onion, garlic, shallots, and the likes; after all, such allium is typically considered to be among the essential ingredients in Balinese cuisine, especially as part of the core concoction of spices called base genep.

Yet, despite the unconventional requirement, he was more than accommodating and found ways to delight us with creative dishes that retain the quintessential Balinese flavours, like the fragrant, savoury, and perfectly spicy pepes jamur (juicy shimeji mushroom wrapped in banana leaf and grilled over charcoal); a bright and refreshing sambal balado (simply a mix of fresh chilli and tomato), and even spinach chips (an incredibly moreish twist on kale chips). Of course, we made sure to take home the recipes for these specially tailored plant-based dishes.

Lunch was served right by the river and under the trees, as we enjoyed the gentle breeze and the constant, calming sound of the river rushing and rippling. We waved from time to time to the thrillseekers rafting down the Ayung River, and afterwards, we could not help but indulge in postprandial stupor at the bale (gazebo) nearby as we tucked into a dessert of kolak pisang (banana and cassava in coconut milk) and ‘energy balls’ made of fresh apricots, apples, among other superfood. We had to pack some of these to our room ultimately, as the breeze and undoubtedly the satiety had sent us all into the most relaxing slumber — out in nature, surrounded by the simplest joys and beauties that nature gifts us.

HEARTFELT SERVICE

If it has not become obvious by now, service at Sayan is a way of life. Service here reflects an unmistakable sense of pride among all our hosts in their community — from the Concierge team promptly addressing every query, to the gardeners caring meticulously for the landscape.

The fact that most of the staff come from the Sayan Village itself, many of whom are actually family members spanning generations, translates to genuine warmth in the way everyone looks after your every need. Here, one is not treated just like a passing guest, but more as an old friend with whom to share many more memories.

Thankfully, rather than stifling such service, technology has actually amplified it and made for an excellent experience for digitally connected travelers who are used to having everything at their fingertips. From pre-arrival arrangements all the way through to post-departure queries, I had the luxury of communicating directly and personally with the hotel’s responsive Concierge team — Adi, Livia, Nita, Depi, among others — through the Four Seasons mobile app. This meant last-minute changes, real-time updates, and in-the-moment sparks of ideas on things to do or sights to see could all be facilitated promptly, as if with one’s very own dedicated personal assistant.

For the second night of our stay, we wanted to move from our Villa, which was offered to us as a generous upgrade given my previous stay with them, to a Duplex Suite in the main building. We were just a tad concerned about the occasional showers making it difficult for us to access some of the facilities, even though buggy service at the resort was prompt and efficient. I dropped them a text via the app to explore the possibility, and within minutes, the Duty Manager Edi confirmed the Suite’s availability and made all the arrangements for the move.

Occasionally, the natural limitations of text-based communications could lead to certain expressions of friendliness or helpfulness being a little lost in translation. For the most part, though, the Concierge team communicates adequately in English, and they clearly take pride in fulfilling every request, no matter how big or small. It was through the app that I managed to get the team’s help to connect with the purveyor of the resort’s signature organic soap “Bali Passion” — a wonderfully calming mix of ylang ylang, ginger, sandalwood, and vanilla — and identify the type of aromatic oil used for my therapeutic massage at the Sacred River Spa. In fact, right before our departure, the Spa team quickly prepared a vial of the oil for me to take home because I’d fallen in love with the scent.

PARTING MEMORIES

Ultimately, it was these subtle elements — the scents you wish to take home with you, the sense of radiance everywhere around the resort, our amusement as Agus tried to find durians for us, and the recipes Chef Gusti hand-delivered to mum while we were at breakfast — that left an imprint far deeper than we had realised. It was never about being presented, as one typically might at many luxury resorts, with a long list of complimentary inclusions and privileges, or grand gestures.

Weeks after we all returned home, I received a message from mum one evening, saying how she kept smiling as she looked through all the photographs we had taken together at Sayan. Unforgettable moments, she said.

I don’t think anyone can put a price on that kind of luxury, a luxury rightfully reserved for our loved ones.